🔗 Share this article

An Expert Colorist

Colourist located in the West Coast who focuses on silver hair. He works with Jane Fonda and Andie MacDowell.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

My top pick is a gentle drying cloth, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Many are unaware how much damage a standard towel can do, particularly for grey or color-processed hair. This one small change can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use in the shower. It protects the hair while detangling and helps preserve the strength of the individual hairs, particularly post-bleaching.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – featuring innovative technology, with precise heat settings. Grey and blonde hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

DIY bleaching. Internet videos often simplify it, but the actual fact is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. It's best to steer clear of keratin or permanent straightening treatments on pre-lightened strands. Such treatments are often too aggressive for delicate locks and can cause long-term damage or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their particular strand characteristics. Some overuse violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks flat and dull. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with rigid, fragile strands. The other major issue is using hot tools sans safeguard. In cases where you employ flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a protective product, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. My advice includes scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to boost blood flow and aid in hair growth. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps clear out buildup and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown notable improvements. They support the body from the inside out by balancing body chemistry, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

For people looking for something more advanced, PRP therapy – where a personalized serum is applied – can be effective. That said, I always suggest getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to identify the source rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

---

Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to keep my ends healthy, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also presently during some significant shedding after having a severe illness recently. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the optimal outcomes. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It doesn’t work. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Also, high-dose biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can affect thyroid test results.

Which error is most frequent?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the main goal of cleansing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the contrary is accurate – particularly with flaky scalp, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If natural oils stay on the head, they decompose and cause irritation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which options help with shedding?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus