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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.